The quotation refers to Mandalay Palace but the same sentiment seems to apply to Myanmar itself. Many visitors have said that Myanmar’s charm steals on one, though it may not be on the first visit. Visitors to Yangon (Rangoon) are mostly awestruck by the majestic sight of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda which can be seen from miles away if coming in by sea from the Bay of Bengal up theYangon River. Novelist Somerset Maugham described it as “superb and glistening with its gold, like a sudden hope in the dark night of the soul”.
Visiting the country for the first time or staying there for longer periods can present something of a shock. One Myanmar-watcher was said to have exclaimed, “Myanmar seems to have been set in aspic, it is so unchanging!” In other words, things were almost exactly the same as when he last saw the country more than 40 years ago. Others have described it as a journey back through a time tunnel or a time warp as time in Myanmar seems to have stopped somewhere in the early 1900s. Visitors from places like Singapore and Malaysia often see in present-day Myanmar the look and lifestyle their own countries had at the turn of the century. Things taken for granted in most countries like 24-hour electricity, gas and water supply and petrol stations along every mile of the road just aren’t there. Some things that Myanmar people take for granted and don’t worry about can really shock visitors: one friend described the shock of having to take off her shoes and walk barefoot to climb up to the Shwe Dagon; another was so annoyed to find that there was no ice in her welcome drink nor was any to be found for the moment in the large hotel she had just arrived at.
Myanmar usually evokes ‘golden memories’ for those who lived there prior to the 1950s. This description may have literally been inspired by the golden-spired pagodas that dot the whole country, or by the fact that the Myanmar people refer to their country as Shway Pyi Daw (The Golden Land), ‘golden’ being an honorific for a beloved object. In reality, such golden memories refer to a time of comparative prosperity when money had value and many goods and services were available locally.
Lately, a number of books have referred to the country as ‘The Forgotten Land’, which Myanmar has indeed become
because of its isolation and closed nature. Many people (even Asians) have only a vague idea of where Myanmar is located, despite the fact that the country occupies a very large area of land between two of the world’s most heavily populated countries—India and China.
Later visitors and those staying longer either love or hate life in Myanmar. The uncertain nature of basic amenities, such as regular supply of water and electricity; the lack of a wide variety of consumer goods found in more developed countries; and the relative absence of nightlife, even in Yangon, are cause enough for foreign residents to find living in Myanmar a great inconvenience.
Yet those who do love it will praise the fresh air, the fresh vegetables and fruits and the green trees, although it is true that the latter are rapidly diminishing in number. An agreeable climate, relatively inexpensive food, custom tailoring that does not cost the earth and friendly domestics are some of the reasons that foreigners have liked to live in Myanmar, especially Yangon. The secret is that these residents have learnt to get the best of both worlds by enjoying the advantages of underdevelopment, while taking frequent shopping trips to cities in the more developed neighbouring countries to get what they need in terms of consumer goods.
There is no doubt that some Myanmar are also able to enjoy a lifestyle that would be the envy of people in developed countries. When earnings can be obtained in foreign exchange, many Myanmar are able to buy consumer goods on the black market, hire servants and own several
cars and large houses with gardens. Of course, such people form a minority and most people struggle to maintain a normal existence amid economic instability. Because Myanmar is a little-known country, we shall start off with a brief survey, touching on its geography, history and economy.
